Karen C - Making Wired 3 - D Flowers and Accents

Wired 3-D Accents

Step 1 Iron paper-backed fusible web to the wrong side of fabric. This will be your main image.

Step 2 Draw a design on the paper side of the fusible web.

Step 3 (optional) On a different fabric, iron fusible web, draw a design detail, (center of flower) Cut it out, remove paper and fuse onto right side up on the flower shape.

Step 4 Iron circle on flower, once cool, cut out flower, remove paper from back of flower.

Step 5 Make wire template. From card stock, draw a smaller, similar shape flower, then cut it out.

Step 6 Woven Metal Fabric- 80 wt. Wire Mesh sheets by “Amaco Brent” 100% copper With a sharpie, trace shape from template onto wire mesh. Cut shape out with paper scissors.

Step 7 Place flower right side down & align woven metal fabric shape centered on flower shape.

Step 8 Flip over flower and metal shape and place onto backing.

Step 9 Stitch around design. Cut out design.

Step 10 On reverse side of each design place a small piece of fusible web in the center. Arrange on quilt and iron center to fuse.

Step 11 Free motion stitch around center to secure to quilt top.

Supplies

Woven Metal Fabric-80 wt. WireMesh sheets byAmaco Brent 100% copper

Various small pieces of colored fabric for applique and backing

Paper-backed fusible web

90/14 top stitch sewing machine needle

28wt cotton thread for top stitching, (Can use 40 or 50 wt)

Paper scissors

Template plastic, cardboard, or paper for wire shaped patterns

Black permanent marker, ultra fine works best

Small quilt or artwork to embellish

Optional – opaque gel pens to draw designs (refer to Step 3

Pam - Using Procreate to import a picture, make a sketch and print it, and play with color and quilting

Using Procreate to import a photo, sketch the photo, print the sketch and play with colors and quilting.

CCTMQG – August 2025 Meeting – Member Demo – Pam Weaver

To Add a Photo –

1.      From the gallery, hit the plus sign in the upper right corner to add a new project.

2.     You can choose the size of your canvas.  For the demo we will use either Paper 8.5 x 11 or Square.

3.     On the upper left, choose the Wrench.  Under Actions, choose Add and then,  Add a Photo.  Navigate to the photo on your computer and click on it to import the photo.

4.     Once the photo is imported, note that you can turn the photo, zoom in, zoom out, and other actions.  Adjust the page to fill the blank canvas to begin by moving or spreading with your fingers.

5.     Click on the Layers button on the upper right, second to the right.  You will see that the Background (white part of the screen) will be white and Layer 1 will be your photo.

6.     If desired, reduce the opacity of the photo to make it easier to sketch.  Double tap in the center of the Layer 1 (Picture) button and you will see an opacity slider appear at the top of the drawing surface.  Slide the red line to the desired opacity.

7.     Consider locking the Photo layer so that you don’t accidentally write on it by sliding the Layer 1 button to the left and clicking on Lock. 

8.     Note that if you wish to flip the photo to facilitate raw edge applique, choose the Wrench, Actions, Canvas and Flip Horizontal.

Sketch the Photo –

1.      While in Layers (see above), press the + sign to add a layer.  This will be your sketching layer  - Layer 2.  Click on this layer button to start sketching.  You can rename this or any layer by tapping on the center of the button and choosing rename.

2.     Choose a pencil or ink color by tapping on the palette circle in the upper right and tapping on the color you desire.  The color appearing in the circle is the color of your pencil or ink.

3.     Then click on the brush icon to choose your writing instrument.  Suggestions include – Sketching – Procreate Pencil or Inking – Technical Pen, or choose your own. On the left side of the writing surface are 2 sliding (up and down) controls.  The upper one is size of the instrument point, and the lower one is the opacity of the line.  Play on the blank layer to get the look you want.  Then erase any action by clicking on the undo and redo buttons that appear under the sliders once you have made a mark.  You can also use the eraser from the upper left and choose an eraser that matches your pen (or not).

4.     Sketch all the outlines of the images.  Add any detail that might be important to your project – like major veins on a leaf. Don’t forget to outline the edge of the entire image.

5.     To check that you didn’t miss anything, go back into Layers and unclick the little box on Layer 1.  The photo will disappear, and you can see what you missed. Reclick Layer 1 and continue your work on Layer 2.   Note that if you want to later play with color (on Optional Layer 3) and want the color to automatically fill the space, you must make sure that all your shapes are fully enclosed by your lines.  In addition to be able to color the background spaces on your drawing, make sure you draw around the edges of your photo to enclose these sections.

Print the Sketch –

1.      While in Layer 2 (Your Sketch Layer), click on the Wrench on the upper left.  Choose actions and share.  Choose Share Image and PDF.  Then choose the Quality you desire. I recommend Best.  The Export page will appear, and you can choose print, save, send as desired.  My ipad connects to my printer but if needed send the PDF via email and download and print from a computer connected to your printer.  Note if your printer prints the entire piece instead of just the outline layer, just unclick all the other layers and try again.

Play with Colors (optional)

1.     Go back to Layers and add Layer 3.  This will be the first of any number of layers used to play with colors.  Extensive tutorials in Coloring in the Sketch is beyond the limits of this brief demo, but there are lots of YouTube videos to help you. To try another palette, unclick Layer 3 and add Layer 4.

2.     To get you started, to drop a color into a space, pick a color from the palette and make sure it appears in the circle in the upper right. Drag the circle and hold it above the area you wish to drop it until a thin blue bar appears above the photo. Drag your finger to the left to fill less area or to the right to fill more area.  Lift your finger or pencil when you are just filling the area desired.

Play with Quilting (optional) –

1.      Once you are finished with playing with colors, add a top layer or layers where you can practice drawing quilting lines or patterns.  The procreate pen works for this.  You don’t want anything too heavy.  Keep the layers you want clicked and unclick the layers you want hidden.  The Quilting layers must be the last layers on top of the rest.  If after playing with quilting, you decide you want to play with another color layer, insert this layer into the stack with the color layers or move it to a position under the quilting.  Otherwise, the colors will obliterate your quilting lines.

Thanks to the following YouTube videos for showing these methods.

Stitches by Julia – Stitch my Photo, Using Procreate to Turn a Photo into a Sketch

Linda Dick Quilts – Using Procreate, Parts 1, 2, and 3.   She uses a photo of a dog and sketches around each of the areas of color on the photo to get her shapes.  Then she uses the color palette to match the colors to each shape.  Way beyond the scope of this demo, but the Basics video is helpful.

Procreate – Multiple videos that cover many aspects of using Procreate.

A Quick Colorful Quilt With Bright Solid Squares and Low Volume White and Black Squares

Patty has made a suggestion for an easy colorful quilt that also makes a great group charity project.

The materials include lots of bright solids and white and black low volume prints.  Each block is a 4 X 4 arrangement of 3.5" squares, making a 12" block. The block has 3 - 4 solid squares randomly placed and the white and black low volume squares for the rest. With 12" blocks, you would only need 20 to make a 48" x 60" quilt. 

See Handout.

Polaroid/Picture Blocks

Betsy recently shared her method for making Polaroid/Photo Blocks with the Guild. Here are the instructions she shared.

Polaroid block materials and instructions:

1 - fussy cut 2.5” center square for your “photo” (finished block = 7.5”)

white or off white material: background fabric:

2 - 1” x 2.5” strips 2 - 2.5” x 4”

1 - 1” x 3.5” strip 2 - 2.5” x 7.5”

1 - 1.5” x 3.5” strip

If you would like to make a Polaroid square with a shadow:

1 - fussy cut 4” center square (finished block = 8.5”)

white/off white material background fabric:

2 - 1” x 4” strips 1 - 1.5” x 1” piece

1 - 1’ x 5” strip 1 - 1.5” x 5” strip

1 - 1.5” x 5” strip 1 - 1.5” x 7” strips

1 - 2” x 8.5” strip

shadow material (black of gray): 1 - 2.5” x 1” piece

2 - 1” x 4.5” strips 1 - 2.5” x 7” strip

For block without a shadow:

1.) Sew a 1” x 2.5” white/off white(w/ow) strip to each side of your fussy cut photo

square. Press seam towards photo square - although either way will work, this is just

what I have seen recommended. Decide which look you like best:-)

2.) Sew the 1” x 3.5” w/ow strip to top of the photo square. Press seams away from the

photo square.

3.) Sew the 1.5” x 3.5” w/ow strip to the bottom of the photo square. Press seam away

from the photo square.

4.) Sew a 2.5” x 4” background(bg) fabric strip to each side of the photo square block.

5.) Sew the 2.5” x 7.5” bg fabric strips to the top and bottom of the photo square block.

You can use 1 square to make the front of a pouch or bag, combine 4 - 6 of these

blocks to make a pillow and combine more to make a lap quilt or quilt top.

For a block with a shadow - same as steps 1 - 3 above but with larger strips for this

block:

4.) Sew the 1.5” x 5” background(bg) strip to the top of the photo square block.

5.) Sew the 2.5” X 1” bg strip to a 1” x 4.5” shadow strip along 1” edge to make one long

strip.

6.) Sew the new strip from the above step to the right side of the photo block square along

the long edge. Start by matching the background fabric piece at the top of the strip to the

background fabric piece on the top of the photo square block. Press seam towards shadow

fabric.

7.) Sew the 1.5” x 1” background strip to the remaining shadow 1” x 4.5” strip, again

along the 1” end, again making a new longer strip

8.) Sew the new strip from above step to bottom of photo square block - sewing the long

edge of the strip to the block so that the background fabric will match up with the white

fabric of the block on the left side and the shadow fabric will match up with the

previously sewn on shadow fabric strip on the right side. Press towards the shadow

fabric.

9.) Sew the 1.5” x 7” background strip along right side of the photo quilt block. Press

seam towards background fabric.

10.) Sew the 2.5” x 7” background fabric along the left side of the photo quilt block.

Press seam towards background fabric.

11.) Sew the 2” x 8.5” background fabric strip along bottom of quilt block. Press seam

towards background fabric.

Similar to the blocks above, you can use this block for the center square of a bag,

combine for a pillow or quilt top.

Here is the link to the instructions on the Crafty Staci website that I mentioned at our

meeting. Her instructions are even better in that they include photos for each step:-)

https://www.craftystaci.com/blog/photo-quilt-block

Hope you have fun making these!

For a PDF of the Above Information click HERE.

Kawandi Information

CCTMQG member Marcia H. shares information about making a Kawandi

A Kawandi is not about perfection – it is a utility quilt. They are made, working from the outer border in, to the center. The quilts are made by women of the Siddi ethnic group in Western India.  They are descendants of early African migrants to South Asia.

Some Notes on how I make a Kawandi

Start about half inch before a corner.

Stitch the first row close to the edge

Each and every row is stitched around the entire piece like a frame.

Finish one row before continuing with the next row.

When stitching, make a backstitch at each corner so the fabric does not pull to the center.

Stitch rows about one quarter to a half inch apart – just eye it – no need to measure.

Your stitches do not need to be perfect.

Your only goal is to cover the previous piece’s raw edge.

Backstitch when adding the next piece of fabric if you feel it’s needed.

When you get to the center of the row, fold your fabric along three edges to help distribute the weight of the fabric.

Fula: Fulas (flowers) are added to each corner. This may be done as you go along, or added at the end.

Fold about a three inch square on the diagonal twice – like a prairie point. Sew the tip of the fula to your kawandi. Leave raw edges on your fula.

Tikli: Tiklis are small pieces of fabric used as a design element. They may be added as you stitch, or later.

Pillar: Pillars are what you might think of as a border. Longer strips of fabric added to the kawandi.

Belly: the belly is the core or center of the kawandi, and that is added last.

Design as you go in the moment as you come to it.

You may choose your fabric ahead of time,but add them improv-ly.

Enjoy the process!

Kawandi website links

https://www.cctmqg.com/s/Kawandi-website-links-version-2.pdf